Our next stop in this journey was Quito. Nestled in a long, narrow valley between the lush base of the Volcano Pichincha to the west and the precipitous canyon of the river Machángara to the east, Quito enjoys an unmatched natural setting. In the night from above Quito is an oasis of lights against the absolute blackness of the forested mountains and volcanoes that surround it. By day the city is equally as impressive. Quito's classic architecture and modern structures work with the timber and vegetation that ring them to produce South America's most beautiful capital city.
Modern Quito is a city of two halves, Old and New. The Old City remains much the same as it did at the end of the colonial period but the New City bears no marks whatsoever of its colonial past. While the New City does not benefit from the area's brilliant history, it shines in its own right. New Quito, with its gleaming office buildings and bustling crowds of business people, is leading Ecuador into the twenty first century.
Quito's altitude, at 2820 M (9252 feet),is almost twice as high as Denver, Colorado. Though because it sits only 25 kilometres from the Equator, Quito does not suffer through long winters like the Mile High City.
On the contrary, Ecuador's capital enjoys mild days and cool nights almost year-round. The climate in the Andes varies according to the altitude and the time of the year. In Quito the temperature ranges from 7 degrees C (55 F) at night to 26 C (78 F) at noon, and averages 15 C (64 F). There are two seasons, wet and dry.Most Quito flights arrive at night, and many travelers arrive in shorts and beach wear assuming that since its on the Equator, it must be hot, then the first step out of the airport gives them a crisp, cool Quito welcome. I have to admit that I too assumed this.
We arrived in Quito and took a taxi to the area that we planned to stay in called “Gringoland”. The actual name is “Mariscal Sucre”. We located the hostel that we had picked out in the travel book. The name of that hostel is: Jostal Vamora. I’ve never been in or stayed in a hostel before, so I didn’t know what to expect. But I can say that the first room we were given was not suitable at all. For reasons that are disgusting….. nuff said.
The second room was okay so we dumped the bags there. During our room transition, we met a little woman (apparently a friend of the owner of the hostel) named "Estrella" (Star). Estrella is an interesting character - Columbiana and a ball of energy. She was more than eager to show us around Quito and in a matter of minutes we were on the streets of the city, looking for a shirt for me to wear dancing that night. Estrella also didn’t mind throwing a few of her own personal items on my purchases (yes, I minded). Christina and I were taken to a number of cute shops close to Gringoland. Let me tell you, I think I definitely need to do my clothes shopping in Ecuador. They have the hottest styles, the quality is good in the right stores and the prices are incredible. We got a bite to eat after shopping and listened to Estrella’s life history. Then we returned to the Hostel to prepare for a night of Salsa at “Mayo 68” – with Estrella leading the way!!!
We got to Mayo 68 and it was pack. The club isn’t very large, but there were a lot of great dancers. It was on this night that we became aquainted with Joffre Arce and he speaks very good English! Yea!
The next day Christina and I walked to the American Embassy (which was closed) to try to get information on her Visa for Brazil. After that fruitless effort, we went to the Quito weekend craft market – there are so many awesome crafts, jewelry, and art. Bartering is a must, but I have to admit I felt uneasy doing it because everything was so beautiful and already so inexpensive. Some things you could tell were very time intensive, but – when in Quito, do what the “Quitoeans” (????) do right?
Joffre had invited us to his soccer game the next day. Christina still wasn't feeling well and her voice was still breaking. She opted not to go to the soccer game. So, after shopping at the market, I took a taxi to meet Joffre and the rest of his soccer team waiting in the team van (I just told them I was the new goalie) and we went to this little town north of Quito for his soccer game. There is a lot of activity going on at the stadium in addition to the game. It's quite a social event too and I noticed people walking back from the “concession” stand their plates loaded with delicious food (no hot dogs here). Pilsener (tasty Cerveza de Ecuador en botellas grandes) was brought in buy the wheel-barrels and crates, carted by little, older ladies – carefully balancing all at the same time. I was amazed at their strength and balance. Toucan Sam enjoyed the day as well. It was a great day and a great experience.
After the game Joffre needed to clean up, so we stopped by the house where he lives with his 2 friends. And wouldn't you know ........they are both Latin Dance instructors with 2 beautiful dance studios on the first floor of the house. It was clear now where Joffre got some of his dance moves. He told me that when the classes are short of men, he gets volunteered to help out. This is not a bad thing...
Then we stopped by Joffre's shop “Boglimarc” - it's close to where he lives. (2 block walk to work - tuff commute to work...poor guy...lol!) He's does custom frame work and I was very impressed by his talent upon entering his store.
While we were at the shop he gave me a gift… a picture he had re-created from the renowned Ecuadorian master painter and sculptor "Oswaldo Guayasamín". The technique Joffre used for this picture is called "Repujado with Plumilla" and the colors he used are "AGUA TINTA". The amount of time and effort that went into this picture amazed me. That he was giving it to me was so special and truly touched my heart. It hadn't been framed when he first gave it to me, but as you can see below, it turned out BEAUTIFULLY! Joffre is very talented.
The next afternoon, Joffre offered to let Christina and I leave our backpacks at his house and we all took a bus to the “Old Town” of Quito. During the rather long bus ride to Old Town we noticed a lot of Vendor’s selling large papier-maché figures. Joffre began to tell us about some of the holiday traditions in Ecuador.
Año Viajo - Ecuador celebrates a unique tradition on the last day of the year. Elaborate effigies, called "Años Viejos"(Old Years) are created to represent people and events from the past year. Often these include political characters or leaders that the creator of the effigy may have disagreed with. The dummies are made of straw, newspaper, and old clothes, with paper mache masks. Often they are also stuffed with fire crackers. At midnight the effigies are lit on fire to symbolize burning away of the past year and welcoming of the New Year. The origin of the tradition is unknown; but it is possible the tradition began after a yellow fever epidemic left many dead. The corpses were then disposed of by burning.
The “Widow”: Another well known tradition is the “Widow” in which a man dresses up as a woman who has to make people laugh by crying a lot. Then the public or people around will give this “widow” some sort of charity for her assumedly mentally insane husband. Joffre told us that some of the costumes are incredibly elaborate.
Yellow underwear: Joffre told us that his mom would get his brothers and sisters yellow underwear for Christmas. This is a very popular tradition, and yellow underwear are said to attract positive energies for the New Year.
Suitcase: Walking around the block with the suitcase will bring the person the journey of their dreams. Joffre describes it a little differently where the person wears a backpack and has the 7 seconds before midnight to make it around the block. Success means that person will travel that year.
The bus finally arrived at "Old Town" and it was so crowded. Sunday is obviously THE day for the whole city of Quito to head to this area. Old Town is one of the most extensive colonial districts in Latin America. This area was named a World Heritage Site by the United Nations. You get the feeling of being transported back and forth between centuries as you walk down the cobblestone streets, passing by vendors selling everything from choclo (Andean corn) to ceramics to techno CDs. I loved it and Joffre said it’s even better to see at night when the lights are on. We didn’t get to stay long because we were catching a flight to Esmeraldas at 3:00 p.m. A Few Things I learned in Quito:
•Estrella’s comment when someone whistles at her – she shouts “Mañana!” while brushing them off.
•There are better hostels in Quito, and they are not hard to find.
•Walk the town by day only, take a taxi at night.
•There are puppies everywhere……Cute, but everywhere. Spay and neuter, not so big in Ecuador.
PS: My Kodak disposable took some grainy, crappy pictures.....forgive the quality.
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